Sunday, November 18, 2007

Bubbles and Sweets – just in time for the holidays ... November 16, 2007

Over the holidays two kinds of wine will reign supreme; the first is obviously Champagne / Sparkling Wine, we’re less than a month and a half away from the biggest staggered party on the planet, where corks shoot into the air and bubbles fill the many wine glasses of revelers. The other wine is not so much a party wine as a relaxation one … a mellow out in front of the fire on a cold winter’s night – I speak of course about Port, that (sometimes) thick, sweet liquid that makes everything seem alright (might be the 20% alcohol) – but rarely is it the wine you’ll get drunk on, like Champagne, or bring to the party. Port is one small glass you’ll nurse for hours. So without further ado here’s what I did … I plowed my way through numerous sparklers and a variety of ports (all available now or soon at your local LCBO) so that 1) you didn’t have to; and 2) so you could bring the right wine to the party … I am so self-sacrificing that way.

Best Value …

I’m all about bang for the buck – or in this case, pop for your pennies … one of the best value bubblies is Remy Pannier Sparking Brut ($10.95 - #341669) very dry but with lots of citrus, apple and lemony flavours, can’t go wrong for $10.95.

Something Unique …

There are people in this world who claim they don’t like sparkling wine, my father once referred to it as “ginger ale in a dirty beer glass”. So for those who don‘t like fizz maybe the Chileans have found an answer, Fresita ($13.95 -#56697 … also available in 4 x 187ml size). This sparkler is made of Muscat, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but what really gives it that special kick is strawberries … they infuse fresh strawberries into the wine giving it a playful tart strawberry nose with a refreshing light strawberry flavour through the mouth; thus no ginger ale or beer tastes. And what’s more, that festive red colour is as inviting as the nose … party on!

Pick a Freixenet …

Having once worked for the LCBO over the holiday season I heard many pronunciations and mispronunciations of this Spanish Cava’s name, many I can’t even spell out phonetically if I wanted to. But with three to chose from the question was always which one to get. My favourite is the Freixenet Carta Nevada ($11.95 - #352369) – this fresh, lively bubbly is loaded with toasted apple and citrus, and as the bubbles subside peach seems to arrive to the party in your mouth. Plus it has a reference to Vegas in the name (Nevada) and you know the old saying: “what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas” – might be very apropos if you end up drinking to much over the holidays and you wake up with your underwear on your head in someone else’s bed.

Kickin’ it with Cava …

Cava, as mentioned above, is Spanish sparkling wine made in the traditional method (fermented in bottle like Champagne). Cordorniu has two that it brings to market, and one of these little piggies should be brought home. I quite enjoyed the Brut Classico ($11.15 - #006262) with its apple taste, slightly sweet palate and lemon finish – all at a price that might make you squeal “wee, wee, wee” all the way home.

Insisting on the Authentic …

Real Champagne (French sparkling made in the Champagne region using the ‘traditional method’) is expensive, period the end … but if you insist on showing up at the party, or showing off by pulling out a bottle of the “good stuff”, you can’t go wrong popping the cork on a bottle of Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut ($67.95 - #384529) with its lovely apple and pear notes throughout.

Blass from the Past …

Wolfie is a recognizable name in Australian wine (I speak of course of Wolf Blass) – it’s one you can bring to any party and people will instantly know you not only have something from Oz, but something of quality too. This Sparkling Brut ($16.95 - #649996) is all that you’d expect from Wolf Blass. Good bubbles, apple, lemon (I thought I also picked up some vanilla in here) and a good clean finish. Something to sip on all night long, for any occasion.

Another Wonder from Down Under …

I’m sure you’ve heard of Banrock Station, they are the makers of one of my favourite Unoaked Chardonnays … they also use those Chardonnay grapes to make a pleasant fizz: Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay ($12.80 - #534974). Typical apple and citrus goodness that you’d expect from this all Chardonnay sparkler – a tad on the sweet tasting side, but not too much, enough to make it a palatable alternative to those who don’t like the extra-bruts (really dry) stuff.

Speaking of Sweeties …

This is the time of year where you are bound to pass a gaggle of girls talking about someone being a “sweetie”. Usually they’re not talking about sparkling wine, but they could be, especially if you give them a glass of one of the three below. From Italy there’s the Neirano Brachetto D’Acqui ($15.95 - #047225) – this one drinks like a red Asti (sweet sparkler made from Moscato grapes) – the fruit is cherries and strawberries and has a sweetness that has the potential to be really sticky in the mouth, but those bubbles help it glide through without getting bogged down and gooey. Another from Italy has been a favourite of mine for years. It’s about a 6 on the sugar code, but the light bubbles keep it from being sickeningly sweet, and many who I have poured it for have though it was much less sweet … and also lovely, in fact they have helped finish off the whole bottle without much prodding. I’m talking here about the Bottega Petalo Il Vino dell Amore Moscato ($12.35 - #58878) a low (6.5) alcohol sparkler with a distinguishable rose petal on the front label; this foreshadows the smells and flavours in the bottle. Floral and peach on the nose and rose-petal- gewürztraminer-like flavours – like Lucky Charms this one’s magically delicious. Finally, the French take a page out of the Italian’s book of sweet-fizzies … Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Demi-Sec ($66 - #38307) wants you to have a sweet occasion when you pop the top on this one. Still carries the Champagne price and the stature of the Veuve name, but this little sweetie delivers a peachy nose and apple peach flavours – it too gives off a little rose petal both in smell and flavouring, but much less so than the Italian.

Sparkle U.S.A. …

Yes Timmy, America does make sparkling wine, few were at the tasting and even fewer impressed, but this Chandon Brut Classico NV ($24.15 - #94946) did the trick. A closed off nose that gave off a thin wisp of citrus and was better on the buds with lemonade flavours, equal parts tart and sweet – interesting and fun … it’s dry, clean, finish won out over the other U.S. entries.

Port for Now …

Now, after all the revelers have gone home, after all the partying of the night before, or after that long, hard day, nothing beats that long slow sip on a glass of your favourite port (fire not included – but very welcome). Taylor Fladgate makes a range of ports to suit anybody’s style. The First Estate ($15.75 - #309401) is a long standing favourite of mine: rich dark chocolate and a boatload of cherries makes up its flavour profile. The 2001 Late Bottled Vintage ($17.95 - #46946) has softer red fruit and dark cocoa … a little less intense than the First Estate, but more tannins and acidity. Their 10 Year Old Tawny ($33.95 - #121749) has some chocolate on the nose but relies more on marmalade, orange peel and nuttiness for its flavours; while the 20 Year Old Tawny ($67.95 - #149047) is a warming blend of caramel, nuts and dried black cherries … everything in the Fladgate line is top notch, worth the price and great to linger over.

Not to be Outdone …

Fonseca has a range of ports at the LCBO too … their Bin 27 Finest Reserve ($16.95 - #156877) is loaded with ripe red cherries and chocolate flavours to rival the TF First Estate or LBV … and the price sits nicely in the middle of both.

Worth Mentioning it Again …

In my Port and Douro report I mentioned a Ruby Port that should be available in the new year and to hopefully look for … well it seems the LCBO agreed, and it will be available March 29, 2008 through Vintages: Infantado Ruby Port ($15.95 - #979898) is an absolute steal at that price for this sweet delicious red fruit, chocolate, strawberry nectar of the Portuguese Gods … I know I’ll be lining up first thing in the AM for a few bottles of this baby – it’s marked on my calendar, make sure to put it on yours … this one is not to be missed.

Have a safe and happy holiday.

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