Thursday, April 24, 2008

Report from ... Somewhereness 2008 – April 22, 2008

If you missed it last year you missed your opportunity to try Ontario’s “Big Boys” … big as in expensive, these wines are not cheap, nor are they made cheaply. These five wineries (Flat Rock, Malivoire, Norm Hardie, Tawse, Stratus) banded together once again to bring us Somewhereness – an expression of terroir. This time they congregated in Leslieville at a gallery called Coupe Space – a smaller venue than last year and unfortunately a little more cramped. Even though the wineries were spread out well this space was still a long narrow tube and the more noise that was generated by the crowd the more the noise would filter to the ends of the room; for example, at the back of the room I found it hard to hear what the guru of assemblage winemaking J.L. Groux, of Stratus, was saying to me.

Stratus …
Ironic that the master of Ontario assembled wines should make a single varietal wine that’s just out of this world. Originally, this wine was destined for the white blend, but it seemed to develop so much unique character that when it came time to dump it in with the others they just couldn’t bring themselves to do it. Good thing too or we’d have all been deprived of the 2006 Gewurztraminer. It spent 12 months in tank on its lees and another 6 months in old French barrels, which gave it great aromatics with spicy and floral notes. The 2005 Red was also a stand out, with its big, red, spicy qualities … the heavy tannins show great potential for ageability … but then again what did you expect from the year or the winery.

Tawse …
We’ll skip over Tawse because every wine on for tasting was touched upon in my Tawse Dinner report, but Pinot and Riesling seem to be stand outs this year – so far.

Norman Hardie …
Norman does Pinot like nobody else. The 2006 Pinot Noir has a stunning nose of black cherry, red fruit, cranberry, black and red raspberry with such subtle hints of oak you wonder if he oaked it at all; that is until the tannins, cinnamon and vanilla begin swirling around with all that fruit in your mouth. Delicious. Norman is also experimenting with Melon de Bourgogne; the 2007 is fruit forward with peach, apricot, vanilla and melon.

Malivoire …
Two summer wines await your tastebuds at Malivoire. The 2007 “Ladybug” Rosé may have the most unfortunate name, but this version is probably the best yet made at Malivoire … 80% Cabernet Franc, 12% Gamay and a hodge-podge of whatever else, this hot vintage wine has produced a delicious red fruit extravaganza with ripe strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavours. Speaking of delicious wine, the 2006 Gewurztraminer is such a beautiful quaffer (too bad it’s $25 a bottle), but the rose petal and spicy aromas come out from the glass and demand you dive in for a taste – easy sipping and enjoyable for all year round.

Flat Rock …
There is no doubt in my mind that their Gravity Pinot Noir is heads and tails above their standard issue Pinot, and that their Nadje’s Vineyard Riesling is so citrus and mineral driven you’d swear it’s the tartest lemonade you’ve ever had; but the wine of the day – for flavour and value – especially for those hot days ahead – is Flat Rock’s 2007 Twisted ($16.95). This perennial favourite is the usual blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer, but it is such a great value white wine that it can be sipped on all summer long – fruity, spicy, florally … the Gewurzt really comes through this year, making it truly memorable.

Point on glassware … with their big-bowled Riedel’s, Somewhereness retains the title for best glassware for any event. You want your wines to show well – use a good glass, period, end of story. Peace-out!

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